I've got H&P on the bookshelf. It's the 'get down and dirty with a breadboard an x86 chip and maybe a soldering iron' aspect I am surfing for. 'Like Ben Eater but for x86', preferably as a course, is what I'm aiming at/curious about.
i think some logic design courses are like this. you're given a fpga dev board (that has a bunch of peripherals and ports on it) and you code up a cpu and a few memory/io controllers and then in order to do something you have to assemble some machine code and run it.
my understanding is that it is a substantial undertaking, especially if you're interfacing with hardware peripherals.
alternatively you could write a mips (subset) emulator and assembler in python and probably get the same understanding in a fraction of the time.