I think wrapping a div with an <a> element is now valid, you probably want to only wrap inline elements like a <span> with an <a> when possible. Imo it's a better practice.
It also avoids having large "white space" areas that are clickable, when only the text should be clickable. (Like when you wrap an <h1> with an <a> for example.)
To add on, clickable whitespace is more of a feature than a bug generally now, because at least in mobile-web world the worst possible thing you could do is make your touch target extremely small by making it only the icon rather than a standard touch target size centered on said icon.
Well shit ... okay ... if they made it easier to code web pages maybe we'd have a more consistent experience. It seems if you do the intuitive thing you always break it for one user or the other, and it's designed such that you have to do a non-intuitive thing to serve everyone.
Intuitiveness is in the eye of the beholder. I'd argue that if you're experienced with accessibility, doing things the "accessible way" becomes more intuitive.
You have to follow the specifications. None of this is remotely intuitive if you haven't read and studied the specs. If your intuition is wrong that's probably because you've been doing "whatever seems to work" rather than reading the specs and following them.